Train days

5 days and 4 nights on a train goes by much more quickly than you would expect. Somehow the hours just melt away as you stare out the window and take in the scenery. Actually, I can’t believe that 2 weeks of this trip are already over.

After leaving Mongolia, we skirted the south shore of Lake Baikal before entering the heart of Siberia.

Siberia is vast expanse of forest dotted with small villages full of traditional wooden houses, some beautifully painted in bright colors.

 Aside from these scattered towns, our route passed mostly through endless taiga forests of birch and pine trees. The trees were already barren in the depths of Siberia, but as we got closer to Asia the birches were still full of brilliant yellow leaves. I wasn’t expecting the array of colors that we got on our last full train day. I think I spent a few hours just staring out the train window and watching them fall in golden cascades.

We also passed countless Russian Orthodox churches, each one unique. Supposedly no two churches in Russia are identical.

 

It’s hard to convey just how big Siberia is. In the course of our trip we crossed through 5 time zones and covered 9001 kilometers in total between Moscow and Beijing. The temperature also fluctuated drastically as we were sweating in Beijing and freezing in Ulaanbaatar. Mongolia was definitely the coldest part of the trip (thank God for cheap Mongolian cashmere!).

A few times a day we stopped at larger towns where we were able to get off the train and stretch our legs. We also could buy provisions for the train, including in some cases fresh bread products like pirogis from babushkas set up on the platforms. My limited Russian has proved invaluable, since no one in these remote towns speaks a word of English.

Our train was surprisingly empty. When we first got on in Ulaanbaatar, the train was full of traders trying to bring goods across the border. The customs process at the border crossings took hours and hours in the middle of the night, with uniformed officials checking passports and inspecting train compartments for stowaways or contraband goods. They go easy on foreigners like us, so we had no problems. We just got to sit and listen as they tossed the compartments of the Mongolian traders and Russian passengers. Once we crossed the border, all the traders got off and the train became quiet. At highest capacity, our car had 4 other solo travelers in it. We met a couple of New Yorkers who were traveling in a first class cabin and they said they had the entire train car to themselves. Apparently this is not peak season for the train.

The train compartments are comfortable enough, although after 4 nights I was ready for a real bed. And more than ready for a shower. But aside from the lack of facilities, life on the train really isn’t bad. It would have been nice to meet and interact with more people, but unfortunately you can't control these things.

I would actually love to do this train trip in the dead of winter and see Siberia blanketed in snow (from the confines of my warm train cabin). I think it would be an absolutely stunning sight. I am also fascinated by the little towns and would love a chance to explore one of them and stay in one of the colorful little houses.

Mostly I am just really excited to be back in Russia. I can’t wait to see Moscow again. I’ve already made a long list of all the things I want to hit while I’m there. I can’t believe it’s been over thirteen years since my summer there. I’m curious to see what has changed and what hasn’t. And the small bits of food we’ve been buying on the train platforms has made me even more excited for Russian food.

We made a brief stop in Red Square on our way from the train to our hotel, and it immediately took me back to that magical summer. A week in Moscow will be the perfect end to what has already been an incredible trip.